Thursday, December 30, 2010
Monday, October 4, 2010
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Good Directions Fire Domes, Hose Pots, Rain chains, and Weathervanes!
Good Directions distinctive accents for home and garden have been making customers Houses Proud for over 25 years. As the industry leader in weathervanes, cupolas, garden accessories and outdoor entertainment, thier products are known for their fine craftsmanship, unique designs and timeless beauty.
BioAXXIS Biometric Deadbolt Locks
The BioAxxis BD1- XL was voted "Best Biometric Lock" after extensive testing by Good Housekeeping Research Institute and Good Housekeeping magazine, it was also named "Editors Pick "in Remodel Magazine (a subsidiary of Better Homes & Garden). The BioAxxis BD1- XL lock was the first biometric deadbolt lock specifically designed and developed for residential homes and small-businesses. After years of input from locksmiths, security firms, and consumers the BioAxxis BD1- XL lock continues to set industry standards in its unmatched quality, reliability and ease of operation.
With the input of thousands of US consumers as well as multiple well-respected US locksmiths and security firms, we have created a deadbolt lock that truly accomplishes a rare blend of beauty and security. In addition, we have sourced the highest quality components to redefine the standard for biometric door locks – ANSI-equivalent mechanics, CE & FCC approved electronics, 100% weatherproof construction, solid steel deadbolt with case-hardened roller pin, and much more.
With the input of thousands of US consumers as well as multiple well-respected US locksmiths and security firms, we have created a deadbolt lock that truly accomplishes a rare blend of beauty and security. In addition, we have sourced the highest quality components to redefine the standard for biometric door locks – ANSI-equivalent mechanics, CE & FCC approved electronics, 100% weatherproof construction, solid steel deadbolt with case-hardened roller pin, and much more.
Friday, July 2, 2010
ViAir Air Compressors
Check out our new ViAir Air Compressors and accessories. Featuring onboard and portable air compressors and accessories.
Shop Now
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Saturday, June 12, 2010
24x7 Support at SDSmarket.com
Customer Service is now open 24 hours a day 7 days a week! Call us anytime with questions or to place an order. 24 x7 Support - 800-236-9029
Friday, June 4, 2010
MyRewards - Reap the rewards with every purchase
It pays to go with MyRewards. Every time you make a purchase with SDS Supply Corp. at our website www.SDSmarket.com, you'll receive points based on your total purchase amount. It's a great way to save on your next purchase whether it's for you or someone special. Learn More
Monday, May 3, 2010
Open Air Cinema Outdoor Movie Screens
Open Air Cinema announces a whole new way to enjoy the thrills and fun of movies under the stars with its Open Air Home Screen. It is simply gorgeous, affordable, ultra light weight, and ready to turn any backyard into a drive-in theater experience. The wide screen
inflatable screen is easier to set up than a pup tent and is easily transportable.
Virtually any venue can become a theater now. With the Open Air Home Screen you can affordably enjoy your favorite movies by the pool, in your backyard, or at a BBQ on the beach. Open Air Cinema manufactures its screens in the United States under the highest of standards to ensure quality, durability and ease of use.
Open Air Cinema offers the best Inflatable Movie Screens for anyone requiring a professional grade projection surface, mobility, durability, and stability in the wind. Inflatable outdoor movie screens are easy to use, safe, and eye-catching! They quickly establish your venue. Open Air Cinema guarantees its inflatable movie screens as the highest quality outdoor movie screens on the market.
inflatable screen is easier to set up than a pup tent and is easily transportable.
Virtually any venue can become a theater now. With the Open Air Home Screen you can affordably enjoy your favorite movies by the pool, in your backyard, or at a BBQ on the beach. Open Air Cinema manufactures its screens in the United States under the highest of standards to ensure quality, durability and ease of use.
Open Air Cinema offers the best Inflatable Movie Screens for anyone requiring a professional grade projection surface, mobility, durability, and stability in the wind. Inflatable outdoor movie screens are easy to use, safe, and eye-catching! They quickly establish your venue. Open Air Cinema guarantees its inflatable movie screens as the highest quality outdoor movie screens on the market.
Kingston Brass Living Finishes
All Bronze and Copper Finishes are considered "Living Finishes" as they are designed to age and patina with time.
Most living finishes are an exclusive province of the higher end of the market. The changeable nature of brass, copper and bronze is a selling point and that changeable nature comes at a premium.
These fixtures are truly made from brass and copper and then they have a patina applied to them in the factory. These patinas are pigments and chemicals that react with the base metal to speed up the aging process. These patinas allow the base metals to look like they're already aged upon arrival. On a living finish, the metal is left unsealed. That is, without a clear top coat to prevent corrosion. Without that clear topcoat, these faucets will also continue to age and their colors will continue to evolve as the base metal reacts with the environment. No two of these faucets will age at the same rate or go through the same color phases. Their continued evolution is completely dependent on the environment where they're placed. Hence the term living finish.
Most living finishes are an exclusive province of the higher end of the market. The changeable nature of brass, copper and bronze is a selling point and that changeable nature comes at a premium.
These fixtures are truly made from brass and copper and then they have a patina applied to them in the factory. These patinas are pigments and chemicals that react with the base metal to speed up the aging process. These patinas allow the base metals to look like they're already aged upon arrival. On a living finish, the metal is left unsealed. That is, without a clear top coat to prevent corrosion. Without that clear topcoat, these faucets will also continue to age and their colors will continue to evolve as the base metal reacts with the environment. No two of these faucets will age at the same rate or go through the same color phases. Their continued evolution is completely dependent on the environment where they're placed. Hence the term living finish.
Monday, April 5, 2010
Save Big at the SDS Clearance Center
Shop the SDS Supply clearance center! Here you will find unbeatable prices on discontinued, open-box, and canceled items. Be sure to check back frequently as we continually update this page as new items become available. Shop Now
Info on Pump Motors
Electric motors come in many shapes and sizes. Some are standardized electric motors for general-purpose applications. Other electric motors are intended for specific tasks. In any case, electric motors should be selected to satisfy the dynamic requirements of the machines on which they are applied without exceeding rated electric motor temperature. The first and most important step in electric motor selection is determining load characteristics - torque and speed versus time. Electric motor selection is also based on mission goals, power available, and cost.
Motor Categories:
Motors are usually grouped into three main categories:
•General Purpose Motors feature standard operating characteristics designed around industry standards.
•Definite Purpose Motors are designed to meet specific application requirements with specific standards. A good example of this motor class is a pump motor.
•Special purpose Motors are designed around one specific application and must meet specific requirements for that application.
Motor Types:
Capacitor-start motor- An alternating current split-phase induction motor that has a capacitor connected in series with an auxiliary winding for starting. The auxiliary circuit disconnects when the motor is up to speed. This motor requires an internal starting switch and governor.
Permanent split capacitor motor- A single-phase electric motor that uses a phase winding in conjunction with the main winding. The phase winding is controlled by a capacitor that stays in the circuit at all times and is rated for continuous running. The capacitor improves starting and running power factors. This motor does not require either an internal starting switch or a governor.
Split-phase motor- A single-phase induction motor that has an auxiliary winding connected in parallel with the main winding. The auxiliary winding's magnetic position is not the same as the main winding, so it can produce the required rotating magnetic field needed for starting. This motor requires an internal starting switch and a governor.
Three-phase electric motor- A motor that operates from a three-phase power source. In three-phase power, three voltages are produced that are 120 electrical degrees apart in time. This motor has no internal starting switch.
Two-capacitor motor- An induction motor that uses one capacitor for starting and one for running. The starting capacitor is in parallel with the running capacitor as the motor is starting; at 75 percent of speed, the starting capacitor is cut out of the circuit. This type of motor is sometimes called capacitor start/capacitor run and requires an internal starting switch and governor.
Motor Electrical Characteristics:
•Horsepower (as applied to motors) — as applied to an electric motor, the horsepower is an index of the amount of work the motor can produce in a period of time. For example: One horsepower equals 33,000 foot pounds of work per minute, that is a one horsepower motor, with suitable gearing
and neglecting all losses, can lift 33,000 pounds one foot in a minute, or one pound 33,000 feet in a minute. Assuming 100% efficiency, 746 watts of electrical power will produce one horsepower.
•Phase - This concept is fairly simple in the United States. You either have a single-phase or 3-phase motor.
•Voltage - Measurement for units of electrical potential or pressure.
The installer should try to get a match as close as possible to the exsisting motor. It’s okay for the replacement motor to have a lower nameplate amperage value. If the replacement motor has a higher value make sure to check the ability of the electrical system to handle the added load.
Motor Performance:
Some considerations for motor performance include motor type, horsepower, speed, and service factor. Motor types include shaded pole, split phase, three-phase, permanent split capacitor, or capacitor start. In many applications more than one type of motor may work and in many more applications an exact replacement will not be found. Using a similar motor with slight differences in the electrical and mechanical features should still provide reliable operation.
Motor Enclosures:
Drip-proof (ODP) or Open Drip-proof - Ventilation openings in bearing housings and some yokes placed so drops of liquid falling within an angle of 15° from vertical will not affect performance. Normally used indoors in fairly clean, dry locations.
Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) - Has an external fan to move cooling air over the motor. Suitable for outdoor and dirty locations.
Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated (TENV) - Does not have external cooling fan but is dependent on radiation and convection for cooling.
Totally Enclosed Air Over (TEAO) - Special motor used to drive a fan blade. Has no external fan and is dependent on air stream of driven fan for cooling.
Explosion-proof - Motor designed to withstand an internal explosion of gas or vapor and not allow flame or explosion to escape. Generally TEFC but also built TENV in smaller horsepower ratings. Motors are labeled to meet UL and NEC requirements.
Motor Categories:
Motors are usually grouped into three main categories:
•General Purpose Motors feature standard operating characteristics designed around industry standards.
•Definite Purpose Motors are designed to meet specific application requirements with specific standards. A good example of this motor class is a pump motor.
•Special purpose Motors are designed around one specific application and must meet specific requirements for that application.
Motor Types:
Capacitor-start motor- An alternating current split-phase induction motor that has a capacitor connected in series with an auxiliary winding for starting. The auxiliary circuit disconnects when the motor is up to speed. This motor requires an internal starting switch and governor.
Permanent split capacitor motor- A single-phase electric motor that uses a phase winding in conjunction with the main winding. The phase winding is controlled by a capacitor that stays in the circuit at all times and is rated for continuous running. The capacitor improves starting and running power factors. This motor does not require either an internal starting switch or a governor.
Split-phase motor- A single-phase induction motor that has an auxiliary winding connected in parallel with the main winding. The auxiliary winding's magnetic position is not the same as the main winding, so it can produce the required rotating magnetic field needed for starting. This motor requires an internal starting switch and a governor.
Three-phase electric motor- A motor that operates from a three-phase power source. In three-phase power, three voltages are produced that are 120 electrical degrees apart in time. This motor has no internal starting switch.
Two-capacitor motor- An induction motor that uses one capacitor for starting and one for running. The starting capacitor is in parallel with the running capacitor as the motor is starting; at 75 percent of speed, the starting capacitor is cut out of the circuit. This type of motor is sometimes called capacitor start/capacitor run and requires an internal starting switch and governor.
Motor Electrical Characteristics:
•Horsepower (as applied to motors) — as applied to an electric motor, the horsepower is an index of the amount of work the motor can produce in a period of time. For example: One horsepower equals 33,000 foot pounds of work per minute, that is a one horsepower motor, with suitable gearing
and neglecting all losses, can lift 33,000 pounds one foot in a minute, or one pound 33,000 feet in a minute. Assuming 100% efficiency, 746 watts of electrical power will produce one horsepower.
•Phase - This concept is fairly simple in the United States. You either have a single-phase or 3-phase motor.
•Voltage - Measurement for units of electrical potential or pressure.
The installer should try to get a match as close as possible to the exsisting motor. It’s okay for the replacement motor to have a lower nameplate amperage value. If the replacement motor has a higher value make sure to check the ability of the electrical system to handle the added load.
Motor Performance:
Some considerations for motor performance include motor type, horsepower, speed, and service factor. Motor types include shaded pole, split phase, three-phase, permanent split capacitor, or capacitor start. In many applications more than one type of motor may work and in many more applications an exact replacement will not be found. Using a similar motor with slight differences in the electrical and mechanical features should still provide reliable operation.
Motor Enclosures:
Drip-proof (ODP) or Open Drip-proof - Ventilation openings in bearing housings and some yokes placed so drops of liquid falling within an angle of 15° from vertical will not affect performance. Normally used indoors in fairly clean, dry locations.
Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) - Has an external fan to move cooling air over the motor. Suitable for outdoor and dirty locations.
Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated (TENV) - Does not have external cooling fan but is dependent on radiation and convection for cooling.
Totally Enclosed Air Over (TEAO) - Special motor used to drive a fan blade. Has no external fan and is dependent on air stream of driven fan for cooling.
Explosion-proof - Motor designed to withstand an internal explosion of gas or vapor and not allow flame or explosion to escape. Generally TEFC but also built TENV in smaller horsepower ratings. Motors are labeled to meet UL and NEC requirements.
Monday, March 1, 2010
The Basics of Expansion Tanks
When water is heated it expands. For example, water heated from 90ºF to a thermostat setting of 140ºF in a 40 gallon hot water heater will expand by almost one-half gallon. This is because when water is heated, its density decreases and its volume expands. The installation of a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV), Check Valve or Back Flow Preventer closes the water system, leaving water with no room for expansion. (National Standard Plumbing code: 10.5.7 requires backflow prevention, to prevent backflow into the water main.) Since water is not compressible, the extra volume created by expansion must go someplace.
Thermal expansion in a closed plumbing system can be damaging, dangerous and costly. Its effects include damage to water heater connections, gas water heater flue tubes, pumps serving washers and dishwashers, leaking faucets, ˝weeping˝ of water through the water heater T&P Safety Valve, and noisy water hammer in the pipes. More serious problems can also occur due to thermal expansion. When dangerous pressures are built up in a water heater, internal parts may fail such as the internal flues, fittings or water connections. If a flue way collapses it can lead to the potential release of toxic gases, such as carbon monoxide into living spaces. Thermal expansion can also lead to a ruptured or distorted hot water heating tank and may void the manufacturer’s warranty. A properly sized expansion tank eliminates these problems, by giving water a place to go when thermal expansion
occurs. When a water heating cycle ends, or when any fixture is opened within the system, the impact of thermal expansion is reduced, and water drains out of the expansion tank back into the system.
Potable and Non-Potable Systems
Potable refers to water in an open domestic hot water heating system. This is water that could potentially be consumed by people and is not recirculated within the system. Non-potable refers to water in a closed hydronic heating, radiant floor heating, or a chilled water system where the water is recirculated and does not leave the system. Each of these hot water heating systems have different thermal expansion requirements.
Indications you may need an Expansion Tank
The most common symptoms that may indicate a thermal expansion problem exists include:
•The water heater relief valve operating to relieve excessive water pressure.
•An excessive water pressure surge when a faucet is opened.
•Increased frequency of faucet washer replacement.
•Metallic expansion noises in the water heater.
•Piping noises, cracking or creaking while the water heater is operating.
•Premature failure of appliance solenoid valves and o-ring seals.
•Severely reduced water heater life.
Plumbing Code Requirements for Thermal Expansion Control
Plumbing codes require that thermal expansion control be addressed in plumbing systems. A temperature and pressure relief valve is not considered a thermal expansion device. This is because when water is allowed to continuously drip from the T&P relief valve, minerals from the water can build up on the valve, eventually blocking it. This blockage can render the T&P valve useless and potentially lead to hot water heater explosions. The International Plumbing Code (IPC), Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and Standard Plumbing Code all require thermal expansion control to be addressed. Many manufacturers offer all sorts of solutions for handling thermal expansion, please visit our links section for the websites of the expansion tank manufacturers.
Thermal expansion in a closed plumbing system can be damaging, dangerous and costly. Its effects include damage to water heater connections, gas water heater flue tubes, pumps serving washers and dishwashers, leaking faucets, ˝weeping˝ of water through the water heater T&P Safety Valve, and noisy water hammer in the pipes. More serious problems can also occur due to thermal expansion. When dangerous pressures are built up in a water heater, internal parts may fail such as the internal flues, fittings or water connections. If a flue way collapses it can lead to the potential release of toxic gases, such as carbon monoxide into living spaces. Thermal expansion can also lead to a ruptured or distorted hot water heating tank and may void the manufacturer’s warranty. A properly sized expansion tank eliminates these problems, by giving water a place to go when thermal expansion
occurs. When a water heating cycle ends, or when any fixture is opened within the system, the impact of thermal expansion is reduced, and water drains out of the expansion tank back into the system.
Potable and Non-Potable Systems
Potable refers to water in an open domestic hot water heating system. This is water that could potentially be consumed by people and is not recirculated within the system. Non-potable refers to water in a closed hydronic heating, radiant floor heating, or a chilled water system where the water is recirculated and does not leave the system. Each of these hot water heating systems have different thermal expansion requirements.
Indications you may need an Expansion Tank
The most common symptoms that may indicate a thermal expansion problem exists include:
•The water heater relief valve operating to relieve excessive water pressure.
•An excessive water pressure surge when a faucet is opened.
•Increased frequency of faucet washer replacement.
•Metallic expansion noises in the water heater.
•Piping noises, cracking or creaking while the water heater is operating.
•Premature failure of appliance solenoid valves and o-ring seals.
•Severely reduced water heater life.
Plumbing Code Requirements for Thermal Expansion Control
Plumbing codes require that thermal expansion control be addressed in plumbing systems. A temperature and pressure relief valve is not considered a thermal expansion device. This is because when water is allowed to continuously drip from the T&P relief valve, minerals from the water can build up on the valve, eventually blocking it. This blockage can render the T&P valve useless and potentially lead to hot water heater explosions. The International Plumbing Code (IPC), Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and Standard Plumbing Code all require thermal expansion control to be addressed. Many manufacturers offer all sorts of solutions for handling thermal expansion, please visit our links section for the websites of the expansion tank manufacturers.
History of the Toilet
A customer this week asked if I knew when the toilet was invented - something I never really thought of.
The quest for something better than pots and open trenches began early in history. Many civilizations throughout time have attempted early versions of toilets. It is believed that as early as 2500 BC the citizens of Harappa, India had water fed toilets in their homes.
Sir John Harington, godson to Queen Elizabeth, is given credit for inventing the flush toilet in 1596. He was determined that this was a necessity for his godmother and himself. Due to the awkwardness and uniqueness he was ridiculed for his absurd device and never made another one. However, the queen and Harington continued to use theirs.
The next attempt at a toilet didn’t come until two hundred years later when Alexander Cummings would reinvent Harrington’s water closet. His idea incorporated the use of “the strap”, a sliding valve he invented between the bowl and the trap. It was the first of is kind and inspired many other to follow his lead and revolutionize the toilet industry.
1775 – Alexander Cummings – Invented the “Strap”, a sliding valve between the bowl and trap.
1777 – Samuel Prosser – Received patent for a plunger closet
1778 – Joseph Bramah – Invented a valve at the bottom of the bowl that worked on a hinge, considered a predecessor to the modern ballcock.
1870 – John Randall Mann – Granted a patent for a three-pipe siphonic closet
1876 – William Smith – Received patent for Jet siphon closet
1885 – Thomas Twyford – Built first trapless toilet in a one-piece, all china design.
1890 – William Howell – Developed water closet that eliminated the lower trap, but maintained the same superior function.
1900-1932 – The U.S. Patent Office received application for 350 new water closet designs.
1932 – present – Many new companies are formed and continue to improve on the water closet. Improvements include the flushometer valve, a backflow preventer, a wall-mounted closet with a blow-out arrangement, a tank that rests on the bowl, and reverse trap toilets.
Sir John Harington, godson to Queen Elizabeth, is given credit for inventing the flush toilet in 1596. He was determined that this was a necessity for his godmother and himself. Due to the awkwardness and uniqueness he was ridiculed for his absurd device and never made another one. However, the queen and Harington continued to use theirs.
The next attempt at a toilet didn’t come until two hundred years later when Alexander Cummings would reinvent Harrington’s water closet. His idea incorporated the use of “the strap”, a sliding valve he invented between the bowl and the trap. It was the first of is kind and inspired many other to follow his lead and revolutionize the toilet industry.
1775 – Alexander Cummings – Invented the “Strap”, a sliding valve between the bowl and trap.
1777 – Samuel Prosser – Received patent for a plunger closet
1778 – Joseph Bramah – Invented a valve at the bottom of the bowl that worked on a hinge, considered a predecessor to the modern ballcock.
1870 – John Randall Mann – Granted a patent for a three-pipe siphonic closet
1876 – William Smith – Received patent for Jet siphon closet
1885 – Thomas Twyford – Built first trapless toilet in a one-piece, all china design.
1890 – William Howell – Developed water closet that eliminated the lower trap, but maintained the same superior function.
1900-1932 – The U.S. Patent Office received application for 350 new water closet designs.
1932 – present – Many new companies are formed and continue to improve on the water closet. Improvements include the flushometer valve, a backflow preventer, a wall-mounted closet with a blow-out arrangement, a tank that rests on the bowl, and reverse trap toilets.
Shower Head Quick Tips
My showerhead is off-center when it is tightened. How can I center it without leaks?
Back it off until it is centered; then count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Reapply lots of PTFE thread sealing tape (clockwise), thread the showerhead onto the arm the same number of turns that it took to remove it.
How do I increase the water pressure in my shower?
If you have eliminated the obvious causes of low water pressure (i.e. major leaks in pipes, or defective water system components like a pressure tank that will no longer hold pressure) then you must consider your options. First of all, water pressure is determined by many factors. Nothing short of spending thousands of dollars on new pumps, pressure tanks, and ripping all of your old pipes out of the wall and replacing them with all new larger diameter pipes will actually increase ones water pressure, and even then all these measures may not really do that much. There is no shower head that will increase your water pressure. Certain shower heads CAN increase the velocity {force} of your water, which does in fact give you a better shower. Removing the flow restrictor does NOTHING. Removing the flow restrictor only increases the flow rate and not the velocity. The best and most economical solution is to investigate in shower heads designed specifically for low pressure applications.
My shower arm is broken off in the wall - How can I fix?
This is a common problem with brass shower arms. Nipples are fairly thick where there are threads. Brass or plastic shower arms can easily break in the wall due to stress from weight, movement, length of arm, etc. It's usually fairly easy to take the broken nipple out if you have the right tool called an "easy out" (pipe nipple extractors). Be careful to not damage the female threads on the 90 degree elbow inside the wall. If you have a leak in this area, you probably wouldn't be aware of it until the leak has done damage. Look with a flashlight to make sure the threads are still good on the fitting inside the wall, and be sure to use lots of PTFE thread sealing tape on your new shower arm. Sometimes using a pipe tap can fix internal female threads on fittings.
Back it off until it is centered; then count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Reapply lots of PTFE thread sealing tape (clockwise), thread the showerhead onto the arm the same number of turns that it took to remove it.
How do I increase the water pressure in my shower?
If you have eliminated the obvious causes of low water pressure (i.e. major leaks in pipes, or defective water system components like a pressure tank that will no longer hold pressure) then you must consider your options. First of all, water pressure is determined by many factors. Nothing short of spending thousands of dollars on new pumps, pressure tanks, and ripping all of your old pipes out of the wall and replacing them with all new larger diameter pipes will actually increase ones water pressure, and even then all these measures may not really do that much. There is no shower head that will increase your water pressure. Certain shower heads CAN increase the velocity {force} of your water, which does in fact give you a better shower. Removing the flow restrictor does NOTHING. Removing the flow restrictor only increases the flow rate and not the velocity. The best and most economical solution is to investigate in shower heads designed specifically for low pressure applications.
My shower arm is broken off in the wall - How can I fix?
This is a common problem with brass shower arms. Nipples are fairly thick where there are threads. Brass or plastic shower arms can easily break in the wall due to stress from weight, movement, length of arm, etc. It's usually fairly easy to take the broken nipple out if you have the right tool called an "easy out" (pipe nipple extractors). Be careful to not damage the female threads on the 90 degree elbow inside the wall. If you have a leak in this area, you probably wouldn't be aware of it until the leak has done damage. Look with a flashlight to make sure the threads are still good on the fitting inside the wall, and be sure to use lots of PTFE thread sealing tape on your new shower arm. Sometimes using a pipe tap can fix internal female threads on fittings.
Residential Water Heater Energy Factors
When you start shopping for a replacement water heater, your foremost indicator in selecting a new water heater is the Energy Factor (EF).
Energy Factor is an annual measure of the useful energy coming out of your water heater, divided by the amount of energy going in to the water heater to heat the water.
A lot of tech talk for something that is basically the annual efficiency of the water heater. The greater the Energy Factor, the more efficient the water heater and the more energy and money it will save.
The energy factor (EF) indicates a water heater's overall energy efficiency based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day. This includes the following:
•Recovery efficiency – how efficiently the heat from the energy source is transferred to the water
Energy Factor is an annual measure of the useful energy coming out of your water heater, divided by the amount of energy going in to the water heater to heat the water.
A lot of tech talk for something that is basically the annual efficiency of the water heater. The greater the Energy Factor, the more efficient the water heater and the more energy and money it will save.
The energy factor (EF) indicates a water heater's overall energy efficiency based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day. This includes the following:
•Recovery efficiency – how efficiently the heat from the energy source is transferred to the water
•Standby losses – the percentage of heat loss per hour from the stored water compared to the heat content of the water (water heaters with storage tanks)
•Cycling losses – the loss of heat as the water circulates through a water heater tank, and/or inlet and outlet pipes.
Therefore, energy efficiency of a water heater is measured by its energy factor. This number, shown on the EnergyGuide label, shows the unit's overall operating costs, taking into account the burner and heat exchanger efficiencies, as well as heat losses from the water tank. Almost all home appliances, including water heaters, dishwashers and clothes washers, display the prominent yellow-and-black EnergyGuide. The EnergyGuide can be a valuable tool. It compares the average yearly operating costs of different water heaters, using the same criteria for all models tested. It lets you see which one would probably cost you less to run.
The higher the energy factor, the better. Gas water heaters have energy factors between 0.5 to around 0.7. Electric models range from 0.75 to 0.95. By varying the tank insulation, burner design, and a few other features, manufacturers continue to make residential heaters more energy efficient. However, higher energy factor values don't always mean lower annual operating costs, especially when you compare fuel sources.
Electric water heaters have higher energy factors. Does that mean that electric water heaters are more efficient? Yes, electric models do make better use of energy, since gas water heaters lose some of their energy up the vent. But since electrical energy usually costs three times more than gas , it's still cheaper to use natural gas, if you have a choice.
If you’re going to buy an electric water heater, we suggest you look for one with an Energy Factor equal to .93 or greater. This represents a 5 to 10 percent savings compared to a standard efficiency electric water heater. This higher efficiency is achieved by better tank insulation to reduce standby losses, and a device to block cooler water from adjacent water pipes from sinking into the tank where it needs to be reheated. The savings pay for the slightly higher costs of these heaters within a year or two.
A standard efficiency 40-gallon gas water heater typically has an Energy Factor of about .55, due to inefficiencies of combustion, a central flue carrying heat away with combustion exhaust, and a continuous gas pilot light, as well as standby losses through insulation and thermosiphoning. We recommend gas water heaters with an Energy Factor of .62 or greater. This represents a 10 percent savings compared to a standard efficiency gas water heater. In addition to reducing standby losses with added insulation and anti-thermosiphon device (heat traps), these improved efficiencies can be achieved for very little added cost by using electronic ignition instead of a pilot light, having automatic draft dampers, and reducing losses out the flue by recovering more of the heat first.
A new generation of residential water heaters is being produced with fully-submerged internal coil heat exchangers. In these water heaters the burner sits inside the combustion chamber completely surrounded by water and the flue gases are used for additional heat transefer. This design greatly improves heat transfer surface compared to standard gas flue tubes. This design also helps keep hot combustion gases in tank longer to lengthen the heat transfer cycle. The design also controls the build up of harmful sediment on the heat exchanger, prolonging the life of the heater. These units boast 90+% thermal efficincies. Thermal efficies should not be confused with energy factors as they are different ways of determing a water heaters overall efficiency. Most of these new heaters are not rated with actual energy factors as they are considered EPACT heaters and not tested by GAMA. For more information on high efficiency residential water heaters please refer to the manufacturers websites. A.O. Smith Vertex water heaters and State Industries Premier Power Vent water heaters are both rated with 90+% Thermal Efficiency.
A unit with a higher energy factor may cost more initially, but the energy savings may more than make up for the higher sticker price. Consider the price difference and how long it would take to recover the money through energy savings.
Water heaters listed in the energy factor ratings include:
•Electric storage water heaters with energy input ratings of 12 kWh or less and with a storage capacity of not less than 20 gallons nor more than 120 gallons
•Gas storage water heaters with energy input ratings of 75,000 BTU/Hr. or less and with a storage capacity of not less than 20 gallons nor more than 100 gallons
•Gas instantaneous water heaters with input ratings greater than 50,000 BTU/Hr. but les than 200,000 BTU/Hr.
To determine the energy factor for a particular water heater, either obtain it from the manufacturer's literature or look it up at http://www.gamapower.org/
Lighted & Fiber Optic Shower Heads
A new trend in shower heads is the incorporation of different color lights. The shower heads are being used as a form of chromatherapy, which assigns different healing properties to each color of the light spectrum. It is important to note what additional requirements are needed to install a shower head with halogen lights or fiber optics.
Chromatherapy - Chromatherapy, sometimes called color therapy, light therapy or colourology, is based on the premise that certain colors are infused with healing energies. The therapy uses the seven colors of the rainbow to promote balance and healing in the mind and body.
Color therapy is rooted in Ayurveda, an ancient form of medicine practiced in India for thousands of years. Ayurveda is based on the idea that every individual contains the five basic elements of the universe: earth, water, air, fire, and ether (space). These elements are present in specific proportions unique to an individual's personality and constitution. When these elements are thrown out of balance through unhealthy living habits or outside forces, illness results. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energies inherent in the colors of the spectrum to restore this balance.
Color therapy was also used in ancient Egypt and China. In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), each organ is associated with a color In qigong, healing sounds are also associated with a color, which in turn corresponds to a specific organ and emotion.
Violet
Violet promotes enlightenment, revelation, and spiritual awakening. Holistic healthcare providers use violet to soothe organs, relax muscles, and calm the nervous system.
Indigo
Indigo is also sedative and calming. It is said to promote intuition. Indigo may be useful in controlling bleeding and abscesses.
Blue
Blue promotes communication and knowledge. It eliminates toxins, and is used to treat liver disorders and jaundice.
Green
Because it is located in the middle of the color spectrum, green is associated with balance. Green is calming, and is used by Ayurvedic practitioners to promote healing of ulcers. It is said to have antiseptic, germicide, and antibacterial properties and is sometimes used by holistic color therapists to treat bacterial infections.
Yellow
Yellow is a sensory stimulant associated with wisdom and clarity. Yellow is thought to have decongestant and antibacterial properties, and is useful in stimulating both the digestive system and the lymphatic system.
Orange
Orange promotes pleasure, enthusiasm, and sexual stimulation. Ayurvedic practitioners believe it has antibacterial properties and may be useful in easing digestive system discomforts (e.g., flatulence, cramps).
Red
Red promotes energy, empowerment, and stimulation. Physically, it is thought to improve circulation and stimulate red blood cell production.
Description: The color spectrum is composed of different frequencies and wavelengths of light energy. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energy of colors to promote harmony and healing. The colors are said to be imbued with certain healing properties (i.e., red is energizing, blue is calming) and the vibrations generated by each color balance the individual.Holistic healthcare providers who practice color therapy often relate the seven colors of the color spectrum to specific areas of the body known as the chakras. In yoga, the chakras are specific spiritual energy centers of the body. The therapeutic action of colors is related to the chakra they represent:
• first (root; or base of spine): red
• second (sacral; or pelvis/groin area): orange
• third (solar plexus) chakra: yellow
• fourth (heart) chakra: green
• fifth (throat) chakra: blue
• sixth (brow) chakra: indigo
• seventh (crown) chakra: violet
Chromatherapy - Chromatherapy, sometimes called color therapy, light therapy or colourology, is based on the premise that certain colors are infused with healing energies. The therapy uses the seven colors of the rainbow to promote balance and healing in the mind and body.
Color therapy is rooted in Ayurveda, an ancient form of medicine practiced in India for thousands of years. Ayurveda is based on the idea that every individual contains the five basic elements of the universe: earth, water, air, fire, and ether (space). These elements are present in specific proportions unique to an individual's personality and constitution. When these elements are thrown out of balance through unhealthy living habits or outside forces, illness results. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energies inherent in the colors of the spectrum to restore this balance.
Color therapy was also used in ancient Egypt and China. In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), each organ is associated with a color In qigong, healing sounds are also associated with a color, which in turn corresponds to a specific organ and emotion.
Violet
Violet promotes enlightenment, revelation, and spiritual awakening. Holistic healthcare providers use violet to soothe organs, relax muscles, and calm the nervous system.
Indigo
Indigo is also sedative and calming. It is said to promote intuition. Indigo may be useful in controlling bleeding and abscesses.
Blue
Blue promotes communication and knowledge. It eliminates toxins, and is used to treat liver disorders and jaundice.
Green
Because it is located in the middle of the color spectrum, green is associated with balance. Green is calming, and is used by Ayurvedic practitioners to promote healing of ulcers. It is said to have antiseptic, germicide, and antibacterial properties and is sometimes used by holistic color therapists to treat bacterial infections.
Yellow
Yellow is a sensory stimulant associated with wisdom and clarity. Yellow is thought to have decongestant and antibacterial properties, and is useful in stimulating both the digestive system and the lymphatic system.
Orange
Orange promotes pleasure, enthusiasm, and sexual stimulation. Ayurvedic practitioners believe it has antibacterial properties and may be useful in easing digestive system discomforts (e.g., flatulence, cramps).
Red
Red promotes energy, empowerment, and stimulation. Physically, it is thought to improve circulation and stimulate red blood cell production.
Description: The color spectrum is composed of different frequencies and wavelengths of light energy. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energy of colors to promote harmony and healing. The colors are said to be imbued with certain healing properties (i.e., red is energizing, blue is calming) and the vibrations generated by each color balance the individual.Holistic healthcare providers who practice color therapy often relate the seven colors of the color spectrum to specific areas of the body known as the chakras. In yoga, the chakras are specific spiritual energy centers of the body. The therapeutic action of colors is related to the chakra they represent:
• first (root; or base of spine): red
• second (sacral; or pelvis/groin area): orange
• third (solar plexus) chakra: yellow
• fourth (heart) chakra: green
• fifth (throat) chakra: blue
• sixth (brow) chakra: indigo
• seventh (crown) chakra: violet
Therapeutic color can be administered in a number of ways, but is often combined with hydrotherapy and aromatherapy to heighten the therapeutic effect.
Precautions: While color therapy may be an effective treatment for promoting relaxation and overall well-being, and as an adjunct, or complementary therapy in treating some disorders and illnesses, individuals with serious chronic or acute health problems should not rely solely on the therapy for treatment. Anyone with a chronic or acute health concern should seek the advice of a qualified medical practitioner.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Bathroom Remodeling – Choosing the Right Sink for Your Space
Remodeling the bathroom is one of the most effective ways to give your home a whole new look and feel. The bathroom is one of the most important rooms in your home, and changing the way it looks can give your entire home a new lease on life. Incorporating your overall design scheme into your bathroom remodeling project is a great way to make your home even more beautiful.
No matter what kind of bathroom remodeling project you are working on, one of the most important things is to choose the right fixtures. The fixtures you choose will form the basis of everything that follows, so it is important to choose your sink, your bathtub and your other fixtures with great care. There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a sink, so it is important to consider each of those factors before you get started.
Floor Space vs. Storage Space
No matter what kind of bathroom remodeling project you are working on, one of the most important things is to choose the right fixtures. The fixtures you choose will form the basis of everything that follows, so it is important to choose your sink, your bathtub and your other fixtures with great care. There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a sink, so it is important to consider each of those factors before you get started.
Floor Space vs. Storage Space
One of the most important things to consider when choosing a new bathroom sink is whether to choose a freestanding sink, which gives you more floor space, or an integrated design that gives you more storage space. It is important to consider your own lifestyle and your tastes. Some homeowners will want to choose an open design for its attractiveness and sleek looks. Others will prefer to integrate their storage cabinets with the bathroom sink to provide additional storage and security.
If you have children in the home you may want to choose a bathroom sink with locking drawers built into the design. This will provide a safe place for storage and allow the homeowner to make the most efficient use of the space available.
Plumbing Considerations
One of the most important considerations when choosing a bathroom sink is the plumbing you have in your home. Working with the plumbing you already have in place will reduce the cost of a bathroom makeover, so you may want to strongly consider choosing a new bathroom sink that will integrate well with your existing pipes.
If your existing pipes come up through the floor, you may want to avoid a wall mounted sink design that could require expensive retrofitting and choose a sink design that is similar to the one you already have. Of course you can choose a sink that better matches your taste and style, but it is important to consider your existing plumbing and the associated costs as well.
Choosing a Great Color
One of the best things about remodeling the bathroom is that it gives you a chance to express your own taste, individuality and style. You can create a warm and welcoming bathroom by choosing a great color scheme, and the fixtures you choose can be a big part of that overall color scheme. From basic white and beige to stunning reds and browns, there are bathroom sinks available in nearly every color of the rainbow.
When choosing a great new bathroom sink, it is important to consider the overall look and feel of your bathroom, including not only the fixtures by the accessories as well. You may want to choose a bathroom sink, tub and toilet that compliment the colors of your shower curtain, window treatments and other accessories. This will create a unified theme and make your bathroom look its best.
Bathroom Rennovation
Create an Ambient Look and Feel with Bathroom RennovationWhether you want to gut your entire bathroom and start from scratch or merely replace a few items, bathroom renovation can help create the look and feel you've always wanted. Bath decor should create a relaxing mood. You should be able to shower and groom in the mornings with a sense of peacefulness as you get ready for a busy work day ahead. Or for evenings, you should be able to settle in to a hot, soothing bath and let your cares and stress float away!
Bathroom Decor and Colors
The first step to remodeling your bathroom is to choose which colors will work for you. Colors for walls, floors and decor items should all blend to create the look and feel you want. Consider pastel paint, wallpaper or wall board with a darker colored floor. Colors such as light beige, light mauve, cinnamon, baby blue and lavender accented by soft lighting will add ambience to your bathroom. These colors are designed to soothe and relax. Keep in mind that most fixtures will go with any colors, so it's a good idea to focus on color first and then fixtures later.
Vanity Centerpiece
No matter which colors you choose, your vanity or sink will be the bathroom centerpiece. It's the central station for hair and make-up, shaving, brushing teeth, plucking eyebrows, washing hands, etc. The vanity is usually what your guests will see first, so choose it carefully. If you're remodeling a master bathroom or one that will be used for getting ready each morning, be sure to choose a vanity with shelves, drawers or cabinets if possible along with plenty of countertop space. If not, you'll need to add a shelf or cabinet nearby to store all your necessary items. You might consider a double sink vanity if two people will be using it each morning. Be sure to install adequate lighting near the mirror or just above the vanity so you'll have plenty of light while getting ready.
For simple bathroom designs that will only be used by guests, consider a pedestal sink, which is basically a single sink with a narrow stand for support. These come in many styles and are very decorative, but take up very little space for small guest bathrooms. You can still install a small cabinet if needed to store items.
Bathtub Options for Renovation
There are many choices to consider when shopping for a bathtub. Consider the amount of space you will have and the type of tub you'll need. Is there room for a large garden tub? If so, you might need to install a separate walk-in shower, which will take up even more space. Do you have room for a tub/shower combo? These are convenient in that they take up little space and are built as one unit so you won't have to worry about caulking between the tub edges and wall. Mildew build-up is almost zilch with these types of tub units!
For master baths, you might consider adding a whirlpool tub. These are usually large garden-style tubs with built-in jets so you can get a comforting water massage every time you take a bath! If you want something more antique style, consider buying a claw-foot, stand-alone bathtub. These look like tubs from yesteryear with all the modern conveniences of running water, of course. Other tubs to consider are soft tubs, copper tubs, and acrylic baths.
Bathroom Decor and Colors
The first step to remodeling your bathroom is to choose which colors will work for you. Colors for walls, floors and decor items should all blend to create the look and feel you want. Consider pastel paint, wallpaper or wall board with a darker colored floor. Colors such as light beige, light mauve, cinnamon, baby blue and lavender accented by soft lighting will add ambience to your bathroom. These colors are designed to soothe and relax. Keep in mind that most fixtures will go with any colors, so it's a good idea to focus on color first and then fixtures later.
Vanity Centerpiece
No matter which colors you choose, your vanity or sink will be the bathroom centerpiece. It's the central station for hair and make-up, shaving, brushing teeth, plucking eyebrows, washing hands, etc. The vanity is usually what your guests will see first, so choose it carefully. If you're remodeling a master bathroom or one that will be used for getting ready each morning, be sure to choose a vanity with shelves, drawers or cabinets if possible along with plenty of countertop space. If not, you'll need to add a shelf or cabinet nearby to store all your necessary items. You might consider a double sink vanity if two people will be using it each morning. Be sure to install adequate lighting near the mirror or just above the vanity so you'll have plenty of light while getting ready.
For simple bathroom designs that will only be used by guests, consider a pedestal sink, which is basically a single sink with a narrow stand for support. These come in many styles and are very decorative, but take up very little space for small guest bathrooms. You can still install a small cabinet if needed to store items.
Bathtub Options for Renovation
There are many choices to consider when shopping for a bathtub. Consider the amount of space you will have and the type of tub you'll need. Is there room for a large garden tub? If so, you might need to install a separate walk-in shower, which will take up even more space. Do you have room for a tub/shower combo? These are convenient in that they take up little space and are built as one unit so you won't have to worry about caulking between the tub edges and wall. Mildew build-up is almost zilch with these types of tub units!
For master baths, you might consider adding a whirlpool tub. These are usually large garden-style tubs with built-in jets so you can get a comforting water massage every time you take a bath! If you want something more antique style, consider buying a claw-foot, stand-alone bathtub. These look like tubs from yesteryear with all the modern conveniences of running water, of course. Other tubs to consider are soft tubs, copper tubs, and acrylic baths.
Toilets Galore
If you've been out of the market for bathroom renovation any length of time, you'll probably be amazed at the new, innovative, water-saving toilet options available today. Toilets have come a long way in the past few years, and are more durable and resourceful than ever. Some popular choices include gravity flush toilets, in which the water weight is used to generate pressure and save electricity, pressure-assisted, vacuum-assisted, dual flush toilets (two buttons for liquid or solid waste), wall-mounted toilets, and single unit toilets (tank/bowl as one unit). Toilet bowls may be round or elongated. Elongated toilets tend to be more comfortable, but you should consider how much space is available for the toilet area.
Each has its own advantages, but the main issue is whether the toilet will work for you and fit your budget. Consider the height and width of the toilet, and make sure it will be comfortable for every member of your household. If you or a family member is disabled, make sure the toilet is designed especially for this purpose. Handicap toilets are available though they tend to cost more than regular toilets.
Consider speaking with a renovation company that can handle your remodeling and plumbing needs. Otherwise, you might have to coordinate two different companies for the job. Once you find the right person to do your bath remodeling, plan the layout of your bathroom and ask for suggestions. Those who specialize in home renovations can often suggest ways to maximize the use of your space while still installing all the bathroom products you desire.
Bathroom renovation takes time and patience, but it's well worth the effort!
Create an Ambient Look and Feel with Bathroom Renovation
Whether you want to gut your entire bathroom and start from scratch or merely replace a few items, bathroom renovation can help create the look and feel you've always wanted. Bath decor should create a relaxing mood. You should be able to shower and groom in the mornings with a sense of peacefulness as you get ready for a busy work day ahead. Or for evenings, you should be able to settle in to a hot, soothing bath and let your cares and stress float away!
Bathroom Decor and Colors
The first step to remodeling your bathroom is to choose which colors will work for you. Colors for walls, floors and decor items should all blend to create the look and feel you want. Consider pastel paint, wallpaper or wall board with a darker colored floor. Colors such as light beige, light mauve, cinnamon, baby blue and lavender accented by soft lighting will add ambience to your bathroom. These colors are designed to soothe and relax. Keep in mind that most fixtures will go with any colors, so it's a good idea to focus on color first and then fixtures later.
Vanity Centerpiece
No matter which colors you choose, your vanity or sink will be the bathroom centerpiece. It's the central station for hair and make-up, shaving, brushing teeth, plucking eyebrows, washing hands, etc. The vanity is usually what your guests will see first, so choose it carefully. If you're remodeling a master bathroom or one that will be used for getting ready each morning, be sure to choose a vanity with shelves, drawers or cabinets if possible along with plenty of countertop space. If not, you'll need to add a shelf or cabinet nearby to store all your necessary items. You might consider a double sink vanity if two people will be using it each morning. Be sure to install adequate lighting near the mirror or just above the vanity so you'll have plenty of light while getting ready.
For simple bathroom designs that will only be used by guests, consider a pedestal sink, which is basically a single sink with a narrow stand for support. These come in many styles and are very decorative, but take up very little space for small guest bathrooms. You can still install a small cabinet if needed to store items.
Bathtub Options for Renovation
There are many choices to consider when shopping for a bathtub. Consider the amount of space you will have and the type of tub you'll need. Is there room for a large garden tub? If so, you might need to install a separate walk-in shower, which will take up even more space. Do you have room for a tub/shower combo? These are convenient in that they take up little space and are built as one unit so you won't have to worry about caulking between the tub edges and wall. Mildew build-up is almost zilch with these types of tub units!
For master baths, you might consider adding a whirlpool tub. These are usually large garden-style tubs with built-in jets so you can get a comforting water massage every time you take a bath! If you want something more antique style, consider buying a claw-foot, stand-alone bathtub. These look like tubs from yesteryear with all the modern conveniences of running water, of course. Other tubs to consider are soft tubs, copper tubs, and acrylic baths.
Bathroom Decor and Colors
The first step to remodeling your bathroom is to choose which colors will work for you. Colors for walls, floors and decor items should all blend to create the look and feel you want. Consider pastel paint, wallpaper or wall board with a darker colored floor. Colors such as light beige, light mauve, cinnamon, baby blue and lavender accented by soft lighting will add ambience to your bathroom. These colors are designed to soothe and relax. Keep in mind that most fixtures will go with any colors, so it's a good idea to focus on color first and then fixtures later.
Vanity Centerpiece
No matter which colors you choose, your vanity or sink will be the bathroom centerpiece. It's the central station for hair and make-up, shaving, brushing teeth, plucking eyebrows, washing hands, etc. The vanity is usually what your guests will see first, so choose it carefully. If you're remodeling a master bathroom or one that will be used for getting ready each morning, be sure to choose a vanity with shelves, drawers or cabinets if possible along with plenty of countertop space. If not, you'll need to add a shelf or cabinet nearby to store all your necessary items. You might consider a double sink vanity if two people will be using it each morning. Be sure to install adequate lighting near the mirror or just above the vanity so you'll have plenty of light while getting ready.
For simple bathroom designs that will only be used by guests, consider a pedestal sink, which is basically a single sink with a narrow stand for support. These come in many styles and are very decorative, but take up very little space for small guest bathrooms. You can still install a small cabinet if needed to store items.
Bathtub Options for Renovation
There are many choices to consider when shopping for a bathtub. Consider the amount of space you will have and the type of tub you'll need. Is there room for a large garden tub? If so, you might need to install a separate walk-in shower, which will take up even more space. Do you have room for a tub/shower combo? These are convenient in that they take up little space and are built as one unit so you won't have to worry about caulking between the tub edges and wall. Mildew build-up is almost zilch with these types of tub units!
For master baths, you might consider adding a whirlpool tub. These are usually large garden-style tubs with built-in jets so you can get a comforting water massage every time you take a bath! If you want something more antique style, consider buying a claw-foot, stand-alone bathtub. These look like tubs from yesteryear with all the modern conveniences of running water, of course. Other tubs to consider are soft tubs, copper tubs, and acrylic baths.
Toilets Galore
If you've been out of the market for bathroom renovation any length of time, you'll probably be amazed at the new, innovative, water-saving toilet options available today. Toilets have come a long way in the past few years, and are more durable and resourceful than ever. Some popular choices include gravity flush toilets, in which the water weight is used to generate pressure and save electricity, pressure-assisted, vacuum-assisted, dual flush toilets (two buttons for liquid or solid waste), wall-mounted toilets, and single unit toilets (tank/bowl as one unit). Toilet bowls may be round or elongated. Elongated toilets tend to be more comfortable, but you should consider how much space is available for the toilet area.
Each has its own advantages, but the main issue is whether the toilet will work for you and fit your budget. Consider the height and width of the toilet, and make sure it will be comfortable for every member of your household. If you or a family member is disabled, make sure the toilet is designed especially for this purpose. Handicap toilets are available though they tend to cost more than regular toilets.
Consider speaking with a renovation company that can handle your remodeling and plumbing needs. Otherwise, you might have to coordinate two different companies for the job. Once you find the right person to do your bath remodeling, plan the layout of your bathroom and ask for suggestions. Those who specialize in home renovations can often suggest ways to maximize the use of your space while still installing all the bathroom products you desire.
Bathroom renovation takes time and patience, but it's well worth the effort!
Do-It-Yourself Faucet Replacement Guide
Faucets are used very frequently, which is why they are prone to getting damaged every once in a while and need to be replaced. When this happens, most people automatically call a professional repair service. However, replacing a faucet is quite simple and you can save a lot of money by doing the replacement yourself.
Choosing a New Faucet
It is always a good idea to have everything you need on hand before you even attempt to remove your old faucet. First, head to the store and choose a faucet you want to install. Choosing a new faucet may actually take longer than you think, mainly because of the number of designs available. There are many different sizes and styles to consider, and your choice will usually depend on where you are going to use the faucet. For instance, there are certain types of faucets designed for kitchen sinks while there are faucets meant for bathtubs. Obviously, you want to choose the appropriate faucet.
Choosing the Right Faucet Size
Obviously, not all faucets you find in stores will fit perfectly in your kitchen sink or your bathroom vanity. To ensure you choose a faucet that is the right size, take out your measuring tape and take note of certain measurements. If you have a single-handled faucet, measure the length from where you are going to put the faucet to the hook-up lines below. If you are replacing a double-handled faucet, measure the length from the middle of the handles to the center. Make sure all your measurements are accurate so you can save yourself the trouble of going back and forth to the store.
Preparing the Necessary Tools
Needless to say, you will need to use some tools in order to install your new faucet properly. Most of these tools you probably already have, unless you are a first-time do-it-yourself homeowner, in which case you might have to purchase the tools as well. All you really need are a few wrenches and pliers. You need adjustable wrenches for holding the valve and disconnecting the main water supply line, and you need the pliers for loosening nuts that hold the faucet in place.
Replacing the Faucet
The first and possibly the most important step in replacing a faucet is to turn off the main water supply that leads to the faucet. If you forget this, you may very well end up with a small flood in your kitchen or bathroom. Next, disconnect the tubes that connect the faucet to the supply line. Finally, unfasten the nuts that hold the faucet in its place and carefully dislodge it from its position. Remove any dirt and debris that may be left in the area and get ready to install your new faucet. It is recommended that you get an assistant to hold the faucet in place as you refasten the nuts under the sink.
Once the faucet is centered and mounted securely, take the supply lines and connect them to the main water supply. Turn on the water supply and check for malfunctions. If there are leaks or other malfunctions, uninstall the faucet and do it all over again, taking care to fasten all nuts tightly and securely. You can also apply plumber's putty onto the joints and gaps between the sink and the faucet. Thread tape is also very handy for stopping leaks in the connection between the supply lines.
Choosing a New Faucet
It is always a good idea to have everything you need on hand before you even attempt to remove your old faucet. First, head to the store and choose a faucet you want to install. Choosing a new faucet may actually take longer than you think, mainly because of the number of designs available. There are many different sizes and styles to consider, and your choice will usually depend on where you are going to use the faucet. For instance, there are certain types of faucets designed for kitchen sinks while there are faucets meant for bathtubs. Obviously, you want to choose the appropriate faucet.
Choosing the Right Faucet Size
Obviously, not all faucets you find in stores will fit perfectly in your kitchen sink or your bathroom vanity. To ensure you choose a faucet that is the right size, take out your measuring tape and take note of certain measurements. If you have a single-handled faucet, measure the length from where you are going to put the faucet to the hook-up lines below. If you are replacing a double-handled faucet, measure the length from the middle of the handles to the center. Make sure all your measurements are accurate so you can save yourself the trouble of going back and forth to the store.
Preparing the Necessary Tools
Needless to say, you will need to use some tools in order to install your new faucet properly. Most of these tools you probably already have, unless you are a first-time do-it-yourself homeowner, in which case you might have to purchase the tools as well. All you really need are a few wrenches and pliers. You need adjustable wrenches for holding the valve and disconnecting the main water supply line, and you need the pliers for loosening nuts that hold the faucet in place.
Replacing the Faucet
The first and possibly the most important step in replacing a faucet is to turn off the main water supply that leads to the faucet. If you forget this, you may very well end up with a small flood in your kitchen or bathroom. Next, disconnect the tubes that connect the faucet to the supply line. Finally, unfasten the nuts that hold the faucet in its place and carefully dislodge it from its position. Remove any dirt and debris that may be left in the area and get ready to install your new faucet. It is recommended that you get an assistant to hold the faucet in place as you refasten the nuts under the sink.
Once the faucet is centered and mounted securely, take the supply lines and connect them to the main water supply. Turn on the water supply and check for malfunctions. If there are leaks or other malfunctions, uninstall the faucet and do it all over again, taking care to fasten all nuts tightly and securely. You can also apply plumber's putty onto the joints and gaps between the sink and the faucet. Thread tape is also very handy for stopping leaks in the connection between the supply lines.