The Basics of Expansion Tanks

When water is heated it expands. For example, water heated from 90ºF to a thermostat setting of 140ºF in a 40 gallon hot water heater will expand by almost one-half gallon. This is because when water is heated, its density decreases and its volume expands. The installation of a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV), Check Valve or Back Flow Preventer closes the water system, leaving water with no room for expansion. (National Standard Plumbing code: 10.5.7 requires backflow prevention, to prevent backflow into the water main.) Since water is not compressible, the extra volume created by expansion must go someplace.

Thermal expansion in a closed plumbing system can be damaging, dangerous and costly. Its effects include damage to water heater connections, gas water heater flue tubes, pumps serving washers and dishwashers, leaking faucets, ˝weeping˝ of water through the water heater T&P Safety Valve, and noisy water hammer in the pipes. More serious problems can also occur due to thermal expansion. When dangerous pressures are built up in a water heater, internal parts may fail such as the internal flues, fittings or water connections. If a flue way collapses it can lead to the potential release of toxic gases, such as carbon monoxide into living spaces. Thermal expansion can also lead to a ruptured or distorted hot water heating tank and may void the manufacturer’s warranty. A properly sized expansion tank eliminates these problems, by giving water a place to go when thermal expansion
occurs. When a water heating cycle ends, or when any fixture is opened within the system, the impact of thermal expansion is reduced, and water drains out of the expansion tank back into the system.



Potable and Non-Potable Systems

Potable refers to water in an open domestic hot water heating system. This is water that could potentially be consumed by people and is not recirculated within the system. Non-potable refers to water in a closed hydronic heating, radiant floor heating, or a chilled water system where the water is recirculated and does not leave the system. Each of these hot water heating systems have different thermal expansion requirements.

Indications you may need an Expansion Tank

The most common symptoms that may indicate a thermal expansion problem exists include:

•The water heater relief valve operating to relieve excessive water pressure.
•An excessive water pressure surge when a faucet is opened.
•Increased frequency of faucet washer replacement.
•Metallic expansion noises in the water heater.
•Piping noises, cracking or creaking while the water heater is operating.
•Premature failure of appliance solenoid valves and o-ring seals.
•Severely reduced water heater life.

Plumbing Code Requirements for Thermal Expansion Control

Plumbing codes require that thermal expansion control be addressed in plumbing systems. A temperature and pressure relief valve is not considered a thermal expansion device. This is because when water is allowed to continuously drip from the T&P relief valve, minerals from the water can build up on the valve, eventually blocking it. This blockage can render the T&P valve useless and potentially lead to hot water heater explosions. The International Plumbing Code (IPC), Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and Standard Plumbing Code all require thermal expansion control to be addressed. Many manufacturers offer all sorts of solutions for handling thermal expansion, please visit our links section for the websites of the expansion tank manufacturers.

History of the Toilet

A customer this week asked if I knew when the toilet was invented - something I never really thought of.

The quest for something better than pots and open trenches began early in history. Many civilizations throughout time have attempted early versions of toilets. It is believed that as early as 2500 BC the citizens of Harappa, India had water fed toilets in their homes.

Sir John Harington, godson to Queen Elizabeth, is given credit for inventing the flush toilet in 1596. He was determined that this was a necessity for his godmother and himself. Due to the awkwardness and uniqueness he was ridiculed for his absurd device and never made another one. However, the queen and Harington continued to use theirs.

The next attempt at a toilet didn’t come until two hundred years later when Alexander Cummings would reinvent Harrington’s water closet. His idea incorporated the use of “the strap”, a sliding valve he invented between the bowl and the trap. It was the first of is kind and inspired many other to follow his lead and revolutionize the toilet industry.

1775 – Alexander Cummings – Invented the “Strap”, a sliding valve between the bowl and trap.

1777 – Samuel Prosser – Received patent for a plunger closet

1778 – Joseph Bramah – Invented a valve at the bottom of the bowl that worked on a hinge, considered a predecessor to the modern ballcock.

1870 – John Randall Mann – Granted a patent for a three-pipe siphonic closet

1876 – William Smith – Received patent for Jet siphon closet

1885 – Thomas Twyford – Built first trapless toilet in a one-piece, all china design.

1890 – William Howell – Developed water closet that eliminated the lower trap, but maintained the same superior function.

1900-1932 – The U.S. Patent Office received application for 350 new water closet designs.

1932 – present – Many new companies are formed and continue to improve on the water closet. Improvements include the flushometer valve, a backflow preventer, a wall-mounted closet with a blow-out arrangement, a tank that rests on the bowl, and reverse trap toilets.

Shower Head Quick Tips

My showerhead is off-center when it is tightened. How can I center it without leaks?

Back it off until it is centered; then count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Reapply lots of PTFE thread sealing tape (clockwise), thread the showerhead onto the arm the same number of turns that it took to remove it.

How do I increase the water pressure in my shower?

If you have eliminated the obvious causes of low water pressure (i.e. major leaks in pipes, or defective water system components like a pressure tank that will no longer hold pressure) then you must consider your options. First of all, water pressure is determined by many factors. Nothing short of spending thousands of dollars on new pumps, pressure tanks, and ripping all of your old pipes out of the wall and replacing them with all new larger diameter pipes will actually increase ones water pressure, and even then all these measures may not really do that much. There is no shower head that will increase your water pressure. Certain shower heads CAN increase the velocity {force} of your water, which does in fact give you a better shower. Removing the flow restrictor does NOTHING. Removing the flow restrictor only increases the flow rate and not the velocity. The best and most economical solution is to investigate in shower heads designed specifically for low pressure applications.


My shower arm is broken off in the wall - How can I fix?

This is a common problem with brass shower arms. Nipples are fairly thick where there are threads. Brass or plastic shower arms can easily break in the wall due to stress from weight, movement, length of arm, etc. It's usually fairly easy to take the broken nipple out if you have the right tool called an "easy out" (pipe nipple extractors). Be careful to not damage the female threads on the 90 degree elbow inside the wall. If you have a leak in this area, you probably wouldn't be aware of it until the leak has done damage. Look with a flashlight to make sure the threads are still good on the fitting inside the wall, and be sure to use lots of PTFE thread sealing tape on your new shower arm. Sometimes using a pipe tap can fix internal female threads on fittings.

Residential Water Heater Energy Factors

When you start shopping for a replacement water heater, your foremost indicator in selecting a new water heater is the Energy Factor (EF).

Energy Factor is an annual measure of the useful energy coming out of your water heater, divided by the amount of energy going in to the water heater to heat the water.

A lot of tech talk for something that is basically the annual efficiency of the water heater. The greater the Energy Factor, the more efficient the water heater and the more energy and money it will save.

The energy factor (EF) indicates a water heater's overall energy efficiency based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day. This includes the following:

•Recovery efficiency – how efficiently the heat from the energy source is transferred to the water

•Standby losses – the percentage of heat loss per hour from the stored water compared to the heat content of the water (water heaters with storage tanks)

•Cycling losses – the loss of heat as the water circulates through a water heater tank, and/or inlet and outlet pipes.

Therefore, energy efficiency of a water heater is measured by its energy factor. This number, shown on the EnergyGuide label, shows the unit's overall operating costs, taking into account the burner and heat exchanger efficiencies, as well as heat losses from the water tank. Almost all home appliances, including water heaters, dishwashers and clothes washers, display the prominent yellow-and-black EnergyGuide. The EnergyGuide can be a valuable tool. It compares the average yearly operating costs of different water heaters, using the same criteria for all models tested. It lets you see which one would probably cost you less to run.

The higher the energy factor, the better. Gas water heaters have energy factors between 0.5 to around 0.7. Electric models range from 0.75 to 0.95. By varying the tank insulation, burner design, and a few other features, manufacturers continue to make residential heaters more energy efficient. However, higher energy factor values don't always mean lower annual operating costs, especially when you compare fuel sources.

Electric water heaters have higher energy factors. Does that mean that electric water heaters are more efficient? Yes, electric models do make better use of energy, since gas water heaters lose some of their energy up the vent. But since electrical energy usually costs three times more than gas , it's still cheaper to use natural gas, if you have a choice.

If you’re going to buy an electric water heater, we suggest you look for one with an Energy Factor equal to .93 or greater. This represents a 5 to 10 percent savings compared to a standard efficiency electric water heater. This higher efficiency is achieved by better tank insulation to reduce standby losses, and a device to block cooler water from adjacent water pipes from sinking into the tank where it needs to be reheated. The savings pay for the slightly higher costs of these heaters within a year or two.

A standard efficiency 40-gallon gas water heater typically has an Energy Factor of about .55, due to inefficiencies of combustion, a central flue carrying heat away with combustion exhaust, and a continuous gas pilot light, as well as standby losses through insulation and thermosiphoning. We recommend gas water heaters with an Energy Factor of .62 or greater. This represents a 10 percent savings compared to a standard efficiency gas water heater. In addition to reducing standby losses with added insulation and anti-thermosiphon device (heat traps), these improved efficiencies can be achieved for very little added cost by using electronic ignition instead of a pilot light, having automatic draft dampers, and reducing losses out the flue by recovering more of the heat first.

A new generation of residential water heaters is being produced with fully-submerged internal coil heat exchangers. In these water heaters the burner sits inside the combustion chamber completely surrounded by water and the flue gases are used for additional heat transefer. This design greatly improves heat transfer surface compared to standard gas flue tubes. This design also helps keep hot combustion gases in tank longer to lengthen the heat transfer cycle. The design also controls the build up of harmful sediment on the heat exchanger, prolonging the life of the heater. These units boast 90+% thermal efficincies. Thermal efficies should not be confused with energy factors as they are different ways of determing a water heaters overall efficiency. Most of these new heaters are not rated with actual energy factors as they are considered EPACT heaters and not tested by GAMA. For more information on high efficiency residential water heaters please refer to the manufacturers websites. A.O. Smith Vertex water heaters and State Industries Premier Power Vent water heaters are both rated with 90+% Thermal Efficiency.

A unit with a higher energy factor may cost more initially, but the energy savings may more than make up for the higher sticker price. Consider the price difference and how long it would take to recover the money through energy savings.

Water heaters listed in the energy factor ratings include:

•Electric storage water heaters with energy input ratings of 12 kWh or less and with a storage capacity of not less than 20 gallons nor more than 120 gallons

•Gas storage water heaters with energy input ratings of 75,000 BTU/Hr. or less and with a storage capacity of not less than 20 gallons nor more than 100 gallons

•Gas instantaneous water heaters with input ratings greater than 50,000 BTU/Hr. but les than 200,000 BTU/Hr.

To determine the energy factor for a particular water heater, either obtain it from the manufacturer's literature or look it up at http://www.gamapower.org/

Lighted & Fiber Optic Shower Heads

A new trend in shower heads is the incorporation of different color lights. The shower heads are being used as a form of chromatherapy, which assigns different healing properties to each color of the light spectrum. It is important to note what additional requirements are needed to install a shower head with halogen lights or fiber optics.

Chromatherapy - Chromatherapy, sometimes called color therapy, light therapy or colourology, is based on the premise that certain colors are infused with healing energies. The therapy uses the seven colors of the rainbow to promote balance and healing in the mind and body.

Color therapy is rooted in Ayurveda, an ancient form of medicine practiced in India for thousands of years. Ayurveda is based on the idea that every individual contains the five basic elements of the universe: earth, water, air, fire, and ether (space). These elements are present in specific proportions unique to an individual's personality and constitution. When these elements are thrown out of balance through unhealthy living habits or outside forces, illness results. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energies inherent in the colors of the spectrum to restore this balance.


Color therapy was also used in ancient Egypt and China. In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), each organ is associated with a color In qigong, healing sounds are also associated with a color, which in turn corresponds to a specific organ and emotion.

Violet
Violet promotes enlightenment, revelation, and spiritual awakening. Holistic healthcare providers use violet to soothe organs, relax muscles, and calm the nervous system.

Indigo
Indigo is also sedative and calming. It is said to promote intuition. Indigo may be useful in controlling bleeding and abscesses.

Blue
Blue promotes communication and knowledge. It eliminates toxins, and is used to treat liver disorders and jaundice.

Green
Because it is located in the middle of the color spectrum, green is associated with balance. Green is calming, and is used by Ayurvedic practitioners to promote healing of ulcers. It is said to have antiseptic, germicide, and antibacterial properties and is sometimes used by holistic color therapists to treat bacterial infections.

Yellow
Yellow is a sensory stimulant associated with wisdom and clarity. Yellow is thought to have decongestant and antibacterial properties, and is useful in stimulating both the digestive system and the lymphatic system.

Orange
Orange promotes pleasure, enthusiasm, and sexual stimulation. Ayurvedic practitioners believe it has antibacterial properties and may be useful in easing digestive system discomforts (e.g., flatulence, cramps).

Red
Red promotes energy, empowerment, and stimulation. Physically, it is thought to improve circulation and stimulate red blood cell production.

Description: The color spectrum is composed of different frequencies and wavelengths of light energy. Ayurvedic medicine uses the energy of colors to promote harmony and healing. The colors are said to be imbued with certain healing properties (i.e., red is energizing, blue is calming) and the vibrations generated by each color balance the individual.Holistic healthcare providers who practice color therapy often relate the seven colors of the color spectrum to specific areas of the body known as the chakras. In yoga, the chakras are specific spiritual energy centers of the body. The therapeutic action of colors is related to the chakra they represent:

• first (root; or base of spine): red
• second (sacral; or pelvis/groin area): orange
• third (solar plexus) chakra: yellow
• fourth (heart) chakra: green
• fifth (throat) chakra: blue
• sixth (brow) chakra: indigo
• seventh (crown) chakra: violet

Therapeutic color can be administered in a number of ways, but is often combined with hydrotherapy and aromatherapy to heighten the therapeutic effect.

Precautions: While color therapy may be an effective treatment for promoting relaxation and overall well-being, and as an adjunct, or complementary therapy in treating some disorders and illnesses, individuals with serious chronic or acute health problems should not rely solely on the therapy for treatment. Anyone with a chronic or acute health concern should seek the advice of a qualified medical practitioner.